Tuesday, June 29, 2021
Body Surfing: " The Closest Thing To Being Born" - Sports Illustrated Vault | SI.com
"Even if body surfing were not the purest form of riding waves, the most fundamental test of man against ocean, the hairiest water activity going and, as someone once said, "the closest thing to the great trauma of being born"—all of which it probably is—the Wedge would be one of nature's finest showcases...
THE reputation of the Wedge prevails every time. A citizens committee tried to close the Wedge in 1963, but we made an impassioned plea for a man's right to break his neck if he wanted to.."
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